Saturday, September 18, 2010

village life

So unfortunately I wasn't able to put up a blog post before I left for my village because the internet was pretty shotty, but anyway since my last blog post I've been in village for almost 2 weeks! I really haven't done much of anything because the first three months in village are supposed to be focused on further language acquisition, however I haven't been doing that either. I'm supposed to have a language tutor, but my village has been pretty slow in trying to help me find one. Everyday I ask my homologue if they've found me a tutor yet, and everyday he says he hasn't talked to the Mayor yet, but that I should know soon. So yea, hopefully that happens because I can honestly feel my Bambara seeping out of me because all I really use is French here since people don't usually speak Bambara here. Although I have come to find out that most people in my village do actually speak Bambara, they just don't. I'm starting to get really annoyed by Senufo. I honestly hate how it sounds and I hate how everyone insists on speaking to me in Senufo first even though they know I don't know any at all. Why can't they just speak to me in Bambara?? My homologue and other villagers keep pestering me to learn Senufo, and I've explained to them about a million times now that after the first 3 months are over I will I have to go back to Tubaniso to take a Bambara language test so I need my focus to be on Bambara not Senufo. Ah well hopefully they will get it soon.

So anyway, as I said earlier, I haven't done much of anything since being here. In the mornings I wake up around 8 am, take a bucket bath, make my breakfast and then do some kind of household chore like laundry or sweeping. After that I usually read. I've read 5 books in the past 2 weeks! I should probably slow down because I'm not going to have any books left. At about noon I walk to my Djatigi's house (basically my host family) for lunch. Everyday except for the first day I have had Toh and it has been disgusting. I can't stand Toh. It's awful. The consistancy is gross and the sauce is nasty. I'm sure I've lost like 5 lbs in the past 2 weeks because I barely eat anything. After lunch I usually have a tea session somewhere; all three rounds, so this usually takes like 2 hours. After tea I take a 1-2 hour nap, and then around 5 I take a bucket bath and then cook my dinner. For dinner almost every single night I've had macaroni and cheese. Ridiculously amazing! Favorite part of the day. I first boil the macaroni over my gas camp stove then I drain out some of the water, add powdered milk and some weird margarine spread that doesn't have to be refrigerated, and then I add 3 triangles of Vache qui rit (laughing cow cheese) which also doesn't have to be refrigerated. Sooooo good. After dinner I usually go outside and hang out with my homologue's family and watch TV with them or I read inside my room. I go to bed around 9, and then I start it all over the next day. God I'm boring.

So I found out that I'm not a cat person a few days ago. Ever since I got my nomination to join the Peace Corps I knew I wanted to get a cat to keep me company no matter where I went. In fact one of the first things I asked my homologue when I came for my site visit like a month ago was if it was possible for me to get a cat in village. So pretty much as soon as I got here he told me he knew of a family with a kitten for me. I was super excited and went to see the cat the next day. It was this super cute female kitten that was white with brown patches and blue eyes. I told the family that I would come get in the next day because I had to pick up food for it first. So the next day I went to the butiki (little shack store) and bought some sardines. the cat was so cute when I picked it up, and didn't fidget or make a noise in my arms the whole walk home. That all changed as soon as I put it down inside my house. From that moment on the kitten wouldn't shut up. My homologue and I figured that it was just crying for it's mom and that it would stop in a day or two once it got habituated. But it didn't. It got habituated alright, and even became a very loving cat, it just never stopped meowing. It constantly wanted attention, and followed me wherever I went. If I even left the room for a second it would start meowing soooo loud! I know this may sound cute to you, but to me it was beyond annoying. After the third day I was already looking for a way to get rid of it. It was so annoying I didn't even bother to give it a name because I knew I had to get rid of it. I was able to pass it off to some random family in the village who was in need of a cat for mice catching or something. I bought the cat on Saturday and was rid of it on Tuesday. It's kind of embarassing that I couldn't handle that small animal, but I guess I'm a low-maintenance pet/ no pet at all person.

These past few days in village I have witnessed a lot of dancing (Ramadan just ended so there was a big party called Seli that day, and I also went to a Soiree held by the Club des Jeunes, basically a youth club, where there was a concert by the Balofone player Neba Solo). I can't handle Malian dancing. Not only does it look like people are having seizures, but it's just too much booty shaking! Senufo dancing is a little different than the dancing that I had seen when I was in Bamako. Here the women, and men too, bend over, stick their butts out and then start stomping the ground at an incredibley fast pace, kind of like they're trying to step on ants. (Mom- it looks just like their doing Kevin's Irish Jig!). The funny thing is that they think their such good dancers! I think they look awful! I guess it's just because I'm not use to it, but honestly it's ridiculous. I'm definitely going to have to take a video of it so that you all can experience it too.

Not only are Malians terrible dancers, they are also terrible dressers, when it comes to wearing Western clothes that is. Their traditional outfits are beautiful, but when they try to look modern it's laughable. I think the 1980s was dumped on Mali. All of the young men wear tight jeans with random pictures and ornamentation on them, with belts with decorative belt buckles, tight shirts, and jackets that look like Member's Only Jackets. The men also pop their collars, and wear militaryish type button ups with fake medals and insiginia. The men also seem to think that a mullet type hair cut is cool here too. The top of their hair is a square cut, and the back is a little longer than the front, i.e. a black man's mullet. They look very much like 1980s Wesley Snipes or Eddie Murphy. The women aren't any better than the men because they wear these super shiny ill-fitting tight shirts over their traditional Pagnes. Fashion here is a hot mess! Oh and I forgot to mention the biggest trend amongst men now, the jelly sandal! I don't know if you will remember this, but I think sometime in the early 90s, when I was in about 3rd grade, jelly sandals were very popular amongst girls. They were plastic sandals that buckled on the side and came in all sorts of colors and usually had glitter mixed into the plastic. Well in Mali, practically ALL of the men have a pair. They're white or clear usually, but they're the same exact things that I was dying to wear as a little girl. Every time I see a 20-something year old dude in a pair of jellies with his tight pants and popped-collar Member's Only jacket I have to bite the inside of my mouth to keep from laughing. Oh Mali.

4 comments:

  1. oh man I miss you. I kept my cat longer though - 4 days. And I even named it (Dragon). But after the constant meowing I was ready to through it out my window. Last night when I unlocked my door and Dragon wasn't there waiting for me I got a little sad. Then I found out he peed all over my stove and sugar bag. And ripped holes in my mosquito net. I don't miss him anymore.

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  2. Elizabeth!!! I love reading your blog, and I'm so happy for you and your experiences in "Afirca" :P I'm excited to hear about more of your adventures!

    -Melissa

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  3. Hello Elizabeth,

    I am an RPCV from a village south of Kayes. I am trying to reach out to local agricultural NGOs for a small grant program that we are developing at Horticulture CRSP. This grant program will connect agricultural NGOs in the developing world to horticultural graduate students in the US. It will fund honoraria for grad students and salaries and transportation costs for the agricultural NGOs. Together they will extend new ideas from US universities to developing-world farmers.

    Could you please email me if you know of any local Ag. NGOs in Mali that would be interested in this opportunity? And could you please send me the email address of Mali’s Ag. APCD or any of the Ag. PCVs?

    I would really appreciate any help you can offer.

    Thank you,

    Peter Shapland
    pcshapland@ucdavis.edu
    Graduate Assistant
    Horticulture CRSP
    www.hortcrsp.ucdavis.edu

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